Chancay or Chimú Textile Fragment with Avian Figures

Pre-Columbian Era, Chimú or Chancay Culture, c. 800–1300 AD, North Coast Peru

This fascinating textile fragment is a rectangular panel of tightly woven cloth, adorned with diagonal registers of abstract avian figures, framed by a bold red, yellow, and white stepped border. A single square design at the middle showcases a stylized bird, further complemented by an outer border featuring four additional avian motifs. Crafted from dyed camelid wool (alpaca or llama) and possibly cotton warps, the textile was produced using the slit tapestry technique, a method that creates delicate slits outlining design elements, enhancing their definition and vibrancy.

In ancient Andean cultures, textiles held profound significance, often serving as funerary offerings. The Chimú and Chancay people wrapped their deceased in elaborate woven garments, preserving both their social identity and spiritual protection in the afterlife. Characterized by repetitive, almost fractal-like patterns, these textiles frequently featured geometric abstractions and intricate framing devices, designed to guide the viewer’s eye diagonally across the composition.

The striking red tones in this textile were likely derived from cochineal insects, while the yellow and black hues came from various native plants. Thanks to the arid, cold climate of the Andes, many such textiles have survived remarkably well, though this particular example is in exceptional condition, surpassing many comparable pieces found in museum collections. As Andean textile traditions evolved around 1300 AD, motifs gradually transitioned from purely geometric designs to more anthropomorphic imagery, marking a shift in artistic and cultural expression.

Excellent condition. Intact. Surface wear and abrasions commensurate with age and use. Loose threads, tears and holes. Stains, soil, dirt and dust. Size approx. 31,0cm x 19,2cm.

Provenance: Swedish private collection. Acquired in Bolivia in 1975.