Chancay Textile Gauze Fragment

Pre-Columbian era, Chancay culture, 1000–1470AD, Peru

This charming small-sized Chancay textile gauze fragment, likely part of a mummy bundle or tunic, showcases the vibrant colors of dark brown, light blue, and beige tones, a testament to the vivid natural dyes used by Chancay weavers. Despite its small size, the fragment retains the intricate craftsmanship characteristic of Chancay textiles.

The Chancay civilization is celebrated for its mastery of textiles, which played a central role in conveying symbolism related to status, gender, wealth, and spirituality. Known for their delicate gauze work, Chancay weavers utilized a variety of materials, including llama wool, cotton, chiffon, and feathers, and employed a wide range of colors such as yellows, browns, scarlet, white, blues, and greens.

Textile designs were often geometric, incorporating motifs of plants, animals—including fish, cats, birds, monkeys, and dogs—and human figures. These fabrics, especially gauze, were primarily used for religious and ceremonial purposes, often for creating headdresses that covered the heads of the deceased in burial rituals. According to Chancay burial customs, the dead were wrapped in layers of cloth and buried with various goods, underscoring the spiritual and cultural significance of textiles within their society.

Moderate condition. Fragment as shown. Age-related heavy wear. Loose threads, tears and holes. Stains, soil, dirt and dust. Sizes approx. 7,0cm x 7,0cm.

Provenance: Swedish private collection