Chancay Tunic or Textile Fragment

Chancay Culture, Late Intermediate Period, c. 1000–1470 AD, Central Coast, Peru

A magnificent hand-woven Chancay tunic (unku) or poncho-style shirt, crafted from tightly woven camelid wool fibers (alpaca or llama) combined with a cotton warp. This rare garment showcases the technical mastery and refined aesthetic of Chancay textile production.

Constructed from multiple panels woven separately and then expertly joined, the tunic originally featured sleeves and a short fringe, now lost to time, with a simple slit neckline still preserved. Its waist-length cut, decorative horizontal registers, and overall form are characteristic of Andean coastal attire. The decorative panels are adorned with stylized avian figures—triangular bodies and large circular eyes—executed in vibrant red, yellow, brown, and cream, reflecting the distinctive Chancay visual language.

The tunic is tapestry-woven, with dyed camelid fibers intricately worked over a cotton warp, a technique characteristic of highland traditions adapted by the Chancay. This dynamic blending of coastal and highland textile practices reflects the cultural exchanges of the Late Intermediate Period and the evolving Andean weaving repertoire.

The Chancay are renowned for their extraordinary textile legacy, producing an array of elaborate garments including men’s tunics and loincloths, women’s dresses, shawls, and headcloths. Two traits distinguish this tunic as a high-prestige garment: the labor-intensive tapestry weave and the extensive use of alpaca fiber, a material highly valued and imported from the Andean highlands.

A remarkable survival of Andean textile artistry, this tunic fragment embodies the sophistication, symbolism, and technical achievement of the Chancay weavers—an exceptional addition for any serious collection of Pre-Columbian textiles.

Good condition. Fragmented. Surface wear and abrasions commensurate with age and use. Loose threads, tears and holes. Stains, soil, dirt and dust. Size approx. 59,0cm x 29,0cm.

Provenance: Acquired in Bolivia in 1975 from James W. Reid, with documentation of the purchase included. Introduced to Sweden in 1978, where it has remained in the possession of the same family ever since.