Chimú Textile Sash with Anthropomorphic Feline Figures

Pre-Columbian Era, Chimú Culture, Late Intermediate Period, c. 1400–1460 AD, Moche Valley, Trujillo, Peru

This exceptional Chimú textile sash is a rare and visually captivating example of Pre-Columbian Andean weaving, featuring anthropomorphic feline figures woven in vivid contrasting colors. The long, narrow textile consists of five panels containing 13 striking humanoid-animal images, executed in fuchsia, vermilion, midnight blue, yellow, and brown. These enigmatic biomorphic beings stand front-facing with arms outstretched, bent legs, and outward-turned feet, their wide, staring eyes and toothy mouths exuding an aura of mysticism and power. Each figure is adorned with a long tunic and a crescent-shaped headdress, reinforcing their ceremonial or supernatural significance.

Woven from finely dyed camelid wool (alpaca or llama) and possibly cotton warps, this sash was created using the slit tapestry technique, a sophisticated weaving method that forms delicate slits to outline motifs, enhancing their definition and depth. The bold use of contrasting colors creates a dynamic illusion of movement, possibly reflecting the hallucinatory experiences that were integral to Andean ritual practices.

The exact function of this textile within Chimú dress remains uncertain, but long woven bands like this were a hallmark of elite Andean attire. This piece was likely worn as a belt, wrapping around an oversized tunic, serving both a decorative and symbolic purpose. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, such textiles held profound cultural significance, encoding the personal identity of the wearer and the artistic vision of the weaver. The brilliant red tones in this sash were most likely derived from cochineal insects, while yellow and black hues came from various native Andean plants. Thanks to the arid, cold climate of the Andes, many textiles have been remarkably preserved over centuries. However, this particular example stands out for its extraordinary condition, surpassing many similar pieces found in museum collections.

By circa 1300 AD, Andean textile motifs began transitioning from purely geometric abstractions to more anthropomorphic representations, reflecting shifts in cultural and artistic expression. This masterfully woven sash embodies that transition, offering a rare glimpse into the spiritual and aesthetic traditions of the Chimú people. A truly museum-quality textile, this piece is a remarkable addition to any collection of Pre-Columbian or Andean artifacts.

Excellent condition. Intact. Surface wear and abrasions commensurate with age and use. Loose threads, tears and holes. Stains, soil, dirt and dust. Size approx. 84,0cm x 3,6cm.

Provenance: Collection of Late Melanie Venes, a highly respected authority on weaving and the President of the London Guild of Weavers. Throughout her life, Venes also pursued her passion for textiles by travelling extensively and collecting the many woven treasures.