Strand of Glass Beads

Early 19th to early 20th century, Ghana and Mali, West Africa

Superb strand composed of mixed small-sized late 19th- and early 20th-century glass trade beads, including chevron, gooseberry, melon, and other classic bead types. Beautifully complementing these is a group of smaller, luminous pear-shaped wedding beads—highly treasured by Fulani women in Mali and traditionally given by mother to daughter as part of her wedding adornment. The strand has been re-strung on a modern cord.

Trade beads served as an essential medium of barter across West Africa and represent some of the earliest forms of long-distance exchange. From the 15th century onward, European traders exchanged glass beads for gold, ivory, palm oil, and enslaved people. By the 18th and 19th centuries, vast quantities were produced specifically for the African market, especially in Venetian workshops on Murano, followed by Bohemian and Dutch glassmakers. Their value was tied to the deep cultural significance of adornment; glass beads became potent symbols of wealth, prestige, and identity. Many designs—such as chevrons, millefiori, vaseline beads, striped melons, and padre beads—were created to suit regional tastes and social uses.

While trade beads gradually lost their function as currency by the late 19th century, they continued to hold immense aesthetic and cultural value. In Ghana and throughout West Africa, the variety and quality of one’s beads remain enduring markers of status, heritage, and personal wealth.

Good condition. Wear commensurate with age and use. Beautiful old patina with minor chips and digs. Strand measures approximately 78.0 cm and includes 172 unique glass beads.

Provenance: Dutch private collection

References and further reading:

A Brief History of Glass Beads in Africa, African Odyssey (https://www.africanodyssey.co.uk/blog/a-brief-history-of-glass-beads-in-africa)

The BeadSite. (http://www.thebeadsite.com/welcome.html)

Collectible Beads: A Universal Aesthetic, Robert K. Liu, Ornament, Inc., 1995.

African Odyssey, A Brief History of Glass Beads in Africa.(https://www.africanodyssey.co.uk/blog/a-brief-history-of-glass-beads-in-africa)