Sumatran Lampung Tapis Raja Medal Sarong

Pubian people, early 19th century, Lampung, Sumatra, Indonesia

Magnificent and imposing ceremonial skirt (tapis), this rare tapis raja medal (“King’s Badge Tapis”) displays a classic pucuk rebung (“bamboo shoot”) motif enriched with mythological naga and human figures. Alternating bands in deep indigo blue, Indian red, green, and burnt yellow create a striking visual rhythm, while the surface is embellished with warped and couched silver threads. Broad horizontal bands feature rows of naga—symbolic creatures associated with water, fertility, the moon, and the Milky Way—interspersed with scenes of riders seated upon them. For the communities of Lampung, naga imagery evoked prosperous transitions, successful voyages, and cosmological protection.

Although originally constructed as a full tubular sarong, the seam has been opened for display. Lampung, located at the southernmost tip of Sumatra, is home to multiple related ethnic groups: the Abung (Abung Siwo Mego) of the northern mountains; the Pubian (Pubian Telu Suku) of the eastern lowlands—together forming the Pepadun cultural sphere; and the coastal Paminggir (Saibatin). Though culturally distinct, these groups share a deep textile tradition in which the tapis plays a central ceremonial role.

Lampung women developed an exceptionally rich textile culture, producing garments used in weddings, initiation rites, festive celebrations—including the week preceding Idul Fitri—and formal welcoming ceremonies. The tapis is particularly renowned for its dense metallic embroidery, which distinguishes it from women’s sarongs elsewhere in Indonesia. Meticulous weaving (mattakh) forms the base cloth, later ornamented with mica, glass, multicoloured silk, and especially gold or silver-wrapped thread applied using the sasab technique: fine decorative stitches on the underside securing the metallic surface motifs. Some older examples (tapis tua) are entirely covered in gilded embroidery.

Ornamentation on a tapis symbolizes reverence for the grandeur of nature and the greatness of God. While floral motifs are traditional, numerous variations appear, including snakes, elephants, birds, ships, and diverse mythical beings. The pucuk rebung—an elongated triangle referencing the bamboo shoot—is among the most iconic and widespread designs across Lampung regalia.

Colours vary according to regional practice and were traditionally derived from natural sources: red from sepang (Caesalpinia sappan), tamarind, areca nut, and henna; yellow from turmeric and tamarind; black from rambutan; brown from durian; and blues from indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) and lanson fruit (Lansium parasiticum). Yarn preservation and colourfastness were achieved using citronella root and betel leaves.

This early 19th-century tapis raja medal is an exceptional example of Lampung textile artistry—rich in symbolism, masterful in execution, and deeply embedded in the ceremonial and spiritual life of the Pubian people.

Excellent condition. Age-related light wear and partially faded colours. Thread loss, slight tarnishing, stains and loose threads. Size approx. 126,0cm x 110,0cm (including modern frames).

Provenance: Finnish private collection

For a similar examples see:

Tapis, The East Indies Museum, Accession Number: 49-737-508 (http://eastindiesmuseum.com/textiles/komering_lampung/49-737-508.html)

Tapis Raja Medal, Art Gallery of NSW, Sydney, Australia, Accession Number 237.2006 (https://www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au/collection/works/237.2006/#about)

References and further reading:

Textiles of Southeast Asia, Transition, Trade and Transformation, Robyn Maxwell, Australia: Oxford University Press, 1990, p. 113.

Traditional Indonesian Textiles, John Gillow, Thames & Hudson, 1995.

Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia, Mary Louise Totton, Hood Museum of Art, 2009.

The ship textiles of South Sumatra: functions and design system, Mattiebelle S. Gittinger, Bijdragen tot de Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde, 1976, 132 (2/3): 207–227.

Sumatra, Crossroads of Cultures, Ed by Francine Brinkgreve & Retno Sulistianingsih, KITLV Press, 2009.

Splendid Symbols: Textiles and Tradition in Indonesia, Mattiebelle S. Gittinger, Washington DC: The Textile Museum, 1979, p. 157.