Kauer Women's Embroidered Baju Jacket

Kauer people, early 20th century, Lampung, Sumatra, Indonesia.

This breathtaking, handwoven baju (short jacket) exemplifies the exceptional craftsmanship and artistry of the Kauer people of Lampung, Sumatra. The jacket is cropped and loose-fitting, crafted from plain weave cotton in alternating narrow vertical bands of indigo blue, rust, and ochre, with intricate geometric patterns inspired by ancient Dongson imagery. Meticulously hand-sewn and fully lined with cream cotton, it features a center-front opening with no fastenings, showcasing its traditional design. The long, straight sleeves display a wide indigo midsection, while the front is adorned with two indigo panels embroidered with intricate scroll motifs. Adding to its allure, small mirror pieces (cermuk) are stitched into place with red thread, creating a striking contrast. Above the indigo panels, a vibrant red floral cotton yoke is embellished with white shells arranged in a starburst pattern, reflecting the grandeur and attention to detail in Kauer textile traditions.

The motifs and materials used in this jacket carry deep cultural significance. Ornamentation often symbolizes Lampung's reverence for nature and divine power. Common motifs include the "pucuk rebung" (bamboo shoot), along with snakes, elephants, birds, ships, and mythical creatures. These patterns reflect both the natural and spiritual worlds. The use of natural dyes, including indigo (Indigofera tinctoria), turmeric (Curcuma longa), and sepang (Caesalpinia sappan), showcases the ingenuity of Kauer artisans in creating vibrant colors from their environment.

Elaborate garments like this baju were traditionally worn by young, unmarried women, paired with a sarong for ceremonies and celebrations. Textile production flourished in Lampung during the late 19th century, fueled by prosperity from the pepper trade. However, the eruption of Krakatoa in 1883 devastated many weaving villages, and by the early 20th century, the production of high-quality textiles had significantly declined due to shifting social and religious practices. This exquisite jacket, with its rich colors, intricate patterns, and use of reflective mirrors and shells, is not only a stunning piece of wearable art but also a testament to the rich cultural heritage and resilience of the Kauer people.

Excellent condition. Carefully attached with pins into modern frame. Age-related minimal wear. Thread loss, slight tarnishing, small stains and loose threads. Size approx. 54,5cm x 115,0cm (with modern frame).

Provenance: Finnish private collection

For a similar examples see:

Jacket, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Accession Number: 1983.59 (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/85703)

Womens jacket, Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, Australia, Accession Number: A7966-22 (https://ma.as/195130)

Womans jacket, RISD Museum, Rhode Island, Accession Number: 2003.40.10 (https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/womans-jacket-20034010)

References and further reading:

Textiles of Southeast Asia, Transition, Trade and Transformation, Robyn Maxwell, Australia: Oxford University Press, 1990, p. 113.

Traditional Indonesian Textiles, John Gillow, Thames & Hudson, 1995.

South Sumatran Ship Cloths, Mattiebelle S. Gittinger, The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club. Vol. 57, 1974, no. 1 & 2

The ship textiles of South Sumatra: functions and design system, Mattiebelle S. Gittinger, Bijdragen tot de Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde, 1976, 132 (2/3): 207–227.

Sumatra, Crossroads of Cultures, Ed by Francine Brinkgreve & Retno Sulistianingsih, KITLV Press, 2009.

Splendid Symbols: Textiles and Tradition in Indonesia, Mattiebelle S. Gittinger, Washington DC: The Textile Museum, 1979, p. 157.